I got up at 5am. I went to the gazebo to savor the relaxing morning sea breeze. The sun hadnt risen yet. But the waves were already in surfing mode. I thought it was a good day to surf. The wind was blowing from the sea towards the shore. The waves were tall and white and foamy. And the roar of the surf was quite loud. Ive seen these kinds of waves in Sydney, where surfing is a national pasttime. Then i saw a dark tanned muscular figure approaching my location. I knew he was a surfer. Ive seen him countless times in the resort, together with his other surf dudes. His name was scott, and he comes from hawaii. He was checking the surf. He thought it was a good day to surf as well. Then came another surfer, Michael, the owner of the resort. When they began talking in surf lingo, i excused myself and headed straight to Cloud 9. It was a mere 5 minute walk, and as i approached the famed site of the annual surfing competition, the sun had began to rise. Darn, i forgot my camera. It was too late to go back to my room. I just had to capture the image in my mind. I took my shirt off, laid it on the sand and sat on it. I noticed two surfers doing some exercises by the shore. After a few minutes, they hit the water and rode their surfboards. I got these photos after breakfast. My telephoto lens didnt reach far enough to see the surfers in action. But i managed to get photos of the waves. This time of the year is like practice session for the surfers. Come September, according to the locals, the surf will be roaring mad.
Friday, May 22, 2009
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